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Need help? Advanced Forum Search. Key: Admin , Global Mod , Mod. Online Spare Parts Online Store. Split Victa Crankcases. Rate Thread. Hop To. Joined: Dec Sydney, NSW, Australia. Bruce OP. Reason: Added Manual Regards, Bruce Please do not PM me asking for support.

Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual. Membership information. Joined: Jan Melbourne, Australia.

Here are 7 more workshop manuals: the earliest one, the "classic" one, the two Vanguard manuals, the two Intek manuals, and the DOV Direct Overhead Valve small engines. Bruce has already posted the third generation manuals, which chronologically come between the classic and the Vanguard ones.

Reason: Add DOV manual. Most Online 2, Dec 23rd, Default Style UBB. Powered by UBB. Responsive Width: PHP: 5. Who's Online Now. Online Spare Parts. Online Store. Newest Topics. Topic Replies. Previous Thread.

Next Thread. Print Thread. Copy Link to Clipboard. Share Post on Facebook. Share Post on Twitter. Switch to Threaded Mode. Show Likes. General Discussion Forum. Off Topics. Joke of the day. OutdoorKing Showcase. Show and Tell. Power Equipment Mishaps and Funny Stuff. When adjusting breaker point assemblies as shown in Fig.

Breaker points assemblies as shown in Fig. Gap is. Inserting Plunger Fig. Breaker points as shown in Fig. Tighten the mounting screw securely.

Slip the open loop of breaker arm spring through the two holes in the arm, then hook closed loop of spring over the small post protruding from the cylinder. Push flat end of the breaker arm into the groove in the mounting post.

This places tension on the spring and pulls arms against the plunger. If condenser post is threaded, attach the coil primary wire and ground wire if furnished with the lockwasher and nut. If primary wire is fastened to condenser with spring fastener, compress spring.

Release spring. Lay the condenser in place and tighten the condenser clamp securely. Open the points and insert a piece of lintless paper. Draw the paper through the points. Open points when removing paper so it will not tear, leaving paper between the points. Set air gap between the flywheel and armature as shown in Table 1. With armature up as far as possible, and one screw tightened, slip the proper gauge between armature and flywheel.

Turn flywheel - until magnets are directly below the armature. Loosen the one mounting screw and the magnets should pull the armature down firmly against the thickness gauge. Then tighten the mounting screws. Breaker Point Cover The breaker point cover, Fig. Cover should not be distorted so as to lose its seal around the outer edge.

Replace if damaged. NOTE: Engines used for winter applications use vented breaker covers. See Engine Parts List. The mounting holes in the armature laminations are slotted. Push armature up as far as possible and tighten one mounting screw to hold armature in place. If sheared, replace. Check flywheel and crankshaft keyways for damage.

If damaged, replace with new parts. Insert zinc key into keyway. Slip spring washer over crankshaft with hollow side toward flywheel. To tighten flywheel nut or starter clutch, reverse removal operation. These parts may be added to engines in the field if contaminated points are experienced. The sealer prevents oil from leaking into the breaker point area. Replace Breaker Points Model Series , , , , , , 19D, 23D Mount the breaker point assembly, then tighten adjustment screw until the locknut has pushed the ferrule as far as possible toward the head of the adjustment screw.

This secures the adjustment screw firmly to the breaker point. Turn crankshaft until points open to widest gap.

This makes it easier to assemble and adjust points later if crankshaft is not removed. Remove condenser and upper and lower mounting screws. Loosen lock nut and back off breaker point screw. Reverse process to install. Adjust and Clean Breaker Points Turn the crankshaft until the points open to their widest gap. Turn breaker point adjusting screw points open to. Tighten locknut, while holding adjustment screw, Fig. To clean points turn crankshaft until points are closed. Insert a piece of lintless paper and draw the paper between the points.

Open the breaker points to withdraw the paper so the paper will not tear and allow a small portion to remain between the points. Apply additional sealer at the point at which the primary wire passes under the breaker cover.

This area must be re-sealed to prevent the entry of dust and moisture. Continue to tighten screws until flywheel loosens, Fig. NOTE: Use flywheel nut to protect crankshaft threads. Gasoline - Position armature bracket so mounting screws are centered in armature bracket and tighten screws, Fig. Kerosene - Position armature bracket to the right, as far as it will go and tighten screws, Fig. Position flywheel on crankshaft taper. Slip key in place. Install flywheel nut finger tight. Rotate flywheel and crankshaft clockwise until breaker points are just opening.

Use a timing light. When points just start to open, arrow on flywheel should line up with arrow on armature bracket, Fig. If arrows do not match, slip off flywheel without disturbing crankshaft position. Slightly loosen mounting screws holding armature bracket to cylinder, Fig. Slip flywheel back on crankshaft. Insert flywheel key. Move armature and bracket assembly to align arrows. Slip off flywheel, tighten armature bracket bolts. Install key and flywheel. Tighten flywheel nut to torque specifications listed in Table No.

Set armature air gap at. Crankshaft must not turn while doing this. Tighten key screw. Tighten flywheel nut. See Table 1. NOTE : Use flywheel nut to protect crankshaft threads. Set points at. Flywheel key screw should be finger tight.

Flywheel nut may be put on loosely, Fig. Removal and installation is as follows. Tighten the nut to pull the bushing. Be sure the plunger does not fall out of the bushing as it is removed. Use a hammer to drive the bushing into the cylinder until the square shoulder on the bushing is flush with the face of the cylinder.

Check to be sure plunger operates freely. Alternate Design Fig. Use a pliers to break plunger off as close to bushing as possible. See Illus. A, Fig. C, to pull the bushing out of the cylinder. Do not allow the plunger or chips to drop into the crankcase. Place the new plunger in the bushing with the large end of the plunger opposite the threads on the bushing. Use a hammer and the old bushing to drive the new bushing into the cylinder until the new bushing is flush with the face of the cylinder.

Check to be sure the plunger operates freely. Continue to tighten screws until flywheel loosens. Be sure the key remains in place. Tighten the set screw securely, then tighten the lock screw to prevent set screw from loosening.

The lock screw is self-threading and the hole does not require tapping. Minimum feeler gauge thickness is. Keep feeler gauge away from magnets on rotor or you will have a false reading. If rotor has a clamp, Fig. If necessary, use a short length of pipe and hammer to drive rotor onto shaft until.

Split in clamp must be between slots in rotor. Tighten clamp lock screws 60 to 70 inch pounds. It may be necessary to use a puller to remove the rotor from the crankshaft. On older models, loosen the small lock screw, then the set screw. Adjust Rotor Timing The rotor and armature are correctly timed at the factory and require timing only if the armature has been removed from the engine, or if the cam gear or crankshaft has been replaced.

If necessary to adjust, proceed as follows: With the point gap set at. Use a timing light or insert a piece of tissue paper between the breaker points to determine when points begin to open. With the three armature mounting screws slightly loose, rotate the armature until the arrow on armature lines up with the arrow on rotor as shown in Fig. Align with corresponding number of engine model. On Models 9, align with 9, etc. Retighten armature mounting screws. Tighten them enough to hold the armature in place but loose enough that the armature can be moved for adjustment of rotor timing.

Attach primary wires from coil and breaker points to the terminal at the upper side of back plate. This terminal is insulated from back plate. Push the ignition cable through the louvered hole at left side of back plate.

However, if one or both need replacement, proceed as follows: The coil primary wire and the coil ground wire must be unfastened. Pry out the clips that hold the coil and coil core to the armature. The coil core is a slip fit in the coil and can be pushed out of the coil. Be sure all wires clear flywheel. Remove Breaker Points Turn crankshaft until points open to widest gap. With terminal screw removed, remove the spring screw. Loosen the breaker shaft nut until nut is flush with end of shaft.

Tap nut to free breaker arm from tapered end of breaker shaft. Remove nut, lockwasher and breaker arm. Remove breaker plate screw, breaker plate, pivot, insulating plate and eccentric. Pry out breaker shaft oil seal with a sharp pointed tool. Place coil and core on armature with coil retainer between the coil and armature, with rounded side toward the coil. Hook the lower end of the clips into the armature; then press the upper end onto the coil core, Fig.

Fasten the coil ground wire bare double wires to the armature support. Replacing coil, Fig. Now place the assembly against the cylinder around the rotor and bearing support. Insert the three mounting screws together with washer and lockwasher into the three long Fig. Breaker points need not be removed to remove breaker box. Press in the new oil seal with the metal side out. Put new breaker plate on top of insulating plate, taking care that the detent in breaker plate engages hole in insulating plate.

Fasten breaker plate screw only enough to put a light tension on the plate. Adjust eccentric so that left edge of insulating plate is parallel to edge of box and tighten screw. This locates the breaker plate so that proper gap adjustments may be made.

Turn breaker shaft clockwise as far as possible and hold in this position. Place new breaker point on shaft, then the lockwasher and tighten nut down on lockwasher. Replace spring screw and terminal screw. Install Breaker Shaft Insert the breaker shaft with arm upward so arm will clear the retainer boss. Push the shaft all the way in, then turn arm downward.

Install Breaker Box Pull the primary wire through the hole at lower left corner of breaker box. See that the primary wire rests in the groove at top end of box: then tighten the two mounting screws to hold box in place.

Loosen the breaker plate screw slightly. Rotate mm. Tighten the breaker plate screw. The points on all models should be cleaned by opening the points, inserting a piece of lintless paper and drawing the paper through between the points.

Open the breaker points to withdraw the paper so that the paper Arill not tear and allow a small portion to remain between the points. If the air cleaner instructions are not carefully followed, the dirt and dust which should be collected in the cleaner, will be drawn into the engine and become a part of the oil film, which is very detrimental to engine life; dirt in the oil forms an abrasive mixture which wears the moving parts, instead of protecting them.

No engine can stand up under the grinding action which takes place when this occurs. The air cleaner on every engine brought in for a check up or repair should be examined and serviced. If the cleaner shows signs of neglect, show it to the customer before cleaning, and instruct him on proper care to assure long engine life.

NOTE: Replace air cleaner gaskets and mounting gaskets that are worn or damaged, to prevent dirt and dust entering engine through improper sealing. Straighten or replace bent mounting studs. Remove screw or wing nut. Remove air cleaner carefully to prevent dirt from entering carburetor.

Take air cleaner apart and clean. WASH foam element in kerosene or liquid detergent and water to remove dirt. Wrap foam in cloth and squeeze dry. Saturate foam with engine oil. Squeeze to remove excess oil. Reassemble parts and fasten to carburetor securely with screw or wing nut. Service Oil Foam Air Cleaner Clean and re-oil air cleaner element every 25 hours or at three month intervals under normal conditions.

Clean every few hours under extremely dusty conditions. See Figures 1 and 2 Fig. They may cause deterioration of the cartridge. To clean - tap cartridge top or bottom on flat surface or wash in nonsudsing detergent and flush from inside until water is clear. After washing, air dry thoroughly before using. NOTE: Service more often under dusty conditions.

Remove knob and cover. Remove foam pre-cleaner by sliding it off of the paper cartridge. Wash foam pre-cleaner in kerosene or liquid detergent and water. Wrap foam pre-cleaner in cloth and squeeze dry. Saturate foam pre-cleaner in engine oil. Install foam pre-cleaner over paper cartridge. Reassemble cover and screw knob down tight. Yearly or every hours, whichever occurs first, remove paper cartridge. Service more often if necessary. Clean by tapping gently on flat surface.

If very dirty, replace cartridge, or wash in a low or nonsudsing detergent and warm water solution. Rinse thoroughly with flowing water from inside until water is clear. Cartridge must be allowed to stand and air dry thoroughly before using. Remove air cleaner stud, screw and gasket. Replace gasket if damaged. Remove plate screw, washer and plate. Remove cartridge and clean air cleaner body carefully to prevent dirt from entering carburetor Brush dirt from body through holes into duct.

Clean cartridge by tapping gently on flat surface. If very dirty, replace cartridge or wash in a low or non-sudsing detergent and warm water solution. Page 3 and i, Fig. Compare the carburetor to be repaired with the illustrations to determine style of carburetor and refer to that section for repair information. Re-assemble air cleaner. Before removing any carburetor for repair, look for signs of air leakage, or mounting gaskets that are loose, have deteriorated, or are otherwise damaged.

Note position of governor springs, governor link, remote control or other attachments to facilitate re-assembly. Do not bend the links or stretch the spring. Section 4 illustrates popular engine models. Wash element thoroughly in solvent and drain dry. Clean bowl and refill with same type of oil used in crankcase. A diaphragm under the carburetor is connected to the choke shaft by a link.

A calibrated spring under the diaphragm holds the choke valve closed when the engine is not running. This system also has the ability to respond similar to an acceleration pump. As speed decreases during heavy loads, the choke valve partially closes enriching the mixture, thereby improving low speed performance and lugging power.

The automatic choke can easily be checked to determine if it is or is not functioning properly. Remove the air cleaner and replace the stud. Observe the position of the choke valve; it should be fully closed. Move the speed control to the stop position; -the governor spring should be holding throttle in a closed position. Pull the starter rope rapidly. The choke valve should alternately open and close. If the engine can be started, run for 2 or 3 minutes, at a normal operating speed.

Then, open the needle valve to be sure the mixture can be made too rich. Next close the needle valve to be sure the mixture can be made too lean. Adjust needle valve to midpoint between too rich and too lean.

Any sticking problems should be corrected, as proper choke operation depends on freedom of the choke to travel as dictated by engine vacuum.

Repair procedures specific to the automatic choke are as follows: Allow engine to run at idle speed for 3 to 5 minutes. Again, close needle valve; the mixture should become so lean the engine will stop.

If the engine continues to run at idle with the needle valve closed, a fuel leak is occurring at one of the following areas: Check items 2D, 2H, 2I, 2. J and 2K.

Remove the carburetor and fuel tank assembly from the engine. The choke link cover may now be removed and the choke link disconnected from the choke shaft. Disassemble carburetor from tank top, using care to insure diaphragm is not damaged.

If the choke valve does not react as stated in Steps 1, 2 and 3, the carburetor will have to be disassembled to determine the problem. See Repair Procedure below.

On Pulsa-Jet models check to insure fuel pump valves are not damaged. Also check choke spring length. If spring length is shorter or longer than specified, replace diaphragm and spring. The following list is given to aid you in checking the performance of the Automatic Choke Carburetion System. Engine Appears to be Under-Choked A.

Carburetor adjusted too lean B. Fuel pipe check valve inoperative Vacu-Jet only C. Bent air cleaner stud D. Sticking choke shaft due to dirt, etc. Choke spring damaged or too short See Repair Procedure F. If the machined surface on the tank is not flat, it is possible for gasoline to enter the vacuum chamber by passing between the machined surface and diaphragm.

Once fuel has entered the vacuum chamber, it can move through the vacuum passage and into the carburetor. The flatness of the machined surface on the tank top can be checked by straight edge and feeler gauge, as shown in Fig.

Replace tank if gauge enters. Engine Appears to be Over-Choked A. Carburetor adjusted too rich B. Bent air cleaner stud C. Ruptured diaphragm E. Vacuum passage restricted F. Choke spring distorted, stretched, etc. Gasoline or oil in vacuum chamber H. Leak between link and diaphragm I. Diaphragm folded during assembly, causing vacuum leak J. Machined surface on tank top not flat See Repair Procedure K.

On Pulsa-Jet carburetor, have pump spring and cap in fuel pump well, Fig. Install roll pin and teflon washer as shown in Fig. Holding carburetor and body together, turn assembly right side up. Thread carburetor mounting screws into tank top about two 2 turns. If a new diaphragm is being installed, assemble choke spring to diaphragm, as shown in Fig. Be careful not to bend or distort the spring. Start engine and run long enough to warm it to operating temperature.

NOTE: If engine is out of adjustment so that it will not start, close the needle valve by turning it clockwise. Tighten carburetor mounting screws in a staggered sequence. Please note Opening the choke to an over center position places the diaphragm in a preloaded condition. Move choke plate to a normal position. Choke plate If choke valve is not fully closed, check to be sure choke spring is properly assembled to diaphragm, and also properly inserted in its pocket in the tank top.

Install choke link cover and gasket. Move speed control lever to run engine at normal operating speed. Turn needle valve in clockwise until engine starts to lose speed lean mixture.

Then slowly turn needle valve out counterclockwise past the point of smoothest operation until engine just begins to run unevenly rich mixture. Turn needle back clockwise to midpoint smoothest operation between rich and lean mixture. Final adjustment of the needle valve should be at the midpoint between rich and lean. Move engine to SLOW.

Turn idle adjusting screw until a fast idle is obtained R. Best adjustment is made with a fuel tank half full of gasoline. If the engine idles at a speed lower than R. It is not practical to attempt to obtain acceleration from speeds below R. Engine should accelerate smoothly.

If engine tends to stall or die out, increase idle speed or re-adjust carburetor, usually to a slightly richer mixture. Model Series , , , and have a Pulsa-Jet carburetor.

NOTE: Flooding can occur if the engine is tipped at an angle for a prolonged period of time, if the engine is cranked repeatedly when the spark plug wire is disconnected or if carburetor mixture is adjusted too rich. Remove carburetor and fuel tank assembly mounting bolts, Fig. In case of flooding, move the governor control to the "Stop" position and pull the starter rope at least six times.

Crank electric starter models for at least 5 seconds. When the control is placed in the "Stop" position the governor spring holds the throttle in a closed idle position. Cranking the engine with a closed throttle creates a higher vacuum which opens the choke rapidly, permitting the engine to clear itself of excess fuel.

Slip carburetor and fuel tank assembly off end of fuel intake tube and turn assembly to free throttle link from throttle lever. This will leave governor link and governor spring connected to the governor blade and control lever, Fig. If the engine on a mower with a high-inertia disc type cutter blade becomes hard starting when the engine is warm, a leaner carburetor mixture may be required.

A heavy, high-inertia disc type cutter blade rotates for a longer period of time, after the governor control is placed in the STOP position.

During this "coasting" period, the engine continues to induct the fuel-air mixture, even when the choke is open. If the carburetor mixture is too rich, the warm engine may flood and become hard starting.

If the original carburetor adjustment has been changed, follow previous adjustment procedure paragraph No. Do not soak diaphragms or nylon parts in cleaner. Disconnect governor spring from control lever. Slide carburetor and fuel tank assembly off end of fuel intake tube and turn assembly to disconnect governor link from bell crank lever.

This will leave governor spring and bell crank assembly on carburetor and fuel tank assembly, Fig. Remove and inspect needle valve, packing and seat. Metering holes in carburetor body should be cleaned with solvent and compressed air.

Do not alter size of holes. Always remove all nylon and rubber parts if carburetor is soaked in solvent. Then lift carburetor straight up.

Remove pump spring, spring cup and diaphragm. Remove needle and seat assembly by backing out mixture adjusting needle about 4 to 5 turns counterclockwise. Then pull needle and seat assembly out. Remove inner "0" ring. Remove screws holding carburetor on tank body. On Model Series and a mounting screw is located under the choke valve. To gain access to the screw, open the choke valve completely.

Use a 2 Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screw, Fig. To remove and replace, use socket as shown in Fig. Do not over-torque. No sealer is required. To remove choke parts, first disconnect choke return spring, Fig. Then pull nylon choke shaft sideways to separate choke shaft from choke valve. If choke valve is heat-sealed to choke shaft, loosen by sliding sharp pointed tool along edge of choke shaft.

Do not reseal parts on assembly. When replacing choke valve and shaft, install choke valve so poppet valve spring is visible when valve is in full choke position on carburetors using poppet valve, Fig. The pipe may snap in and out with considerable force. Then slide choke link out choke shaft lever. Pull shaft out of valve, Fig.

Examine fuel pipe screens for gum deposits and dirt. Replace if dirty. Replace diaphragm if worn, torn, punctured or stiff. Inspect mixture adjustment needle, Fig. To function properly, the screen must be clean and the check ball free. Replace pipe if Screen is clogged or the check ball is not free to move.

Oil fill tube, part no. Install choke plate and choke shaft. Choke shaft lever should be as shown in Fig. Then install needle valve assembly, Fig.

Place "O" ring in groove in throttle bore. Early "O" rings had a square cross section. Current "O" rings have a round cross section. Then turn needle in until large seal washer just touches needle seat, Fig. The diaphragm on Pulsa-Jet carburetors also serves as a gasket between the carburetor and tank.

To assemble Vacu-Jet carburetor to tank, place gasket on tank and place carburetor on gasket. Install and tighten two 2 screws evenly to avoid distortion. Then place spring cap and spring on diaphragm. Install carburetor and tighten four 4 screws evenly in staggered sequence to avoid distortion, Fig. All rights reserved. Change Region.

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